• Guitar Repairs Townsville

Training: High School Certificate & Electical Engineering Course at Blathi Otto Electric Technical College, Budapest, Hungary (4 years), Pipe Organ Building & Piano Tuner Technician - Organ Works at Franc Liszt Music Academy, Budapest Hungary (5 years) Specialisation: All types of electric organs, pipe organs, reed organs, keyboards, piano. Feb 28, 2019  Brisbane, Feb 28, 2019 (Issuewire.com) – A Queensland-based flooring company running a campaign to re-floor the homes of flood-affected Townsville residents free of charge is calling out for support.European Hardware which specialises in timber flooring has already donated two houses worth of flooring to families in need and is running a campaign to floor 20 more.

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Guitar Repairs Townsville

Hi there, I'm an EE student at University in the UK, so when my digital piano stopped functioning, I thought I'd take a look at it before letting somebody else do the work. OK, digital piano works fine for five years, and then, blows the UK-EU socket fuse. I replace the fuse, the piano works fine for two minutes, then blows the fuse again. I replace the fuse, the piano doesn't turn on AT ALL. I take the piano apart and my first area of diagnosis is the power supply board.

I'm looking for dodgy capacitors here, five years is a long time and is about inline with the expected lifetime of some (cheaper) and even more expensive electrolytic caps. VOLTAGE SELECTOR ABOVE NOT PRESENT IN MY MODEL The board looks completely fine, there is no charring and the capacitors are very healthy looking. I take to the board with a cheap DMM to check for continuity etc, and everything is fine. The resistors have the correct values, and so on. I add power to the board and go probing to check for voltages and then FZ3 blows - secondary side - I'm unsure what I was probing at the time. It must be said that before FZ3 blew, the voltage from +18V to PGND was not 18 volts; it was significantly less.

I continue probing and I get to checking the diodes. D1 and D2 are perfectly fine and R1 holds 1kOhms. The diode bridges were a funny one. DB3 had continuity across its two middle pins - which from what I know, it shouldn't have by looking at the schematic.

DB1 worked fine. So, I take the capacitor out (C5) and test it and it is open in both directions - so, it's fine(?). After taking C5 out, there is still continuity across the two middle pins of DB3. I take DB3 out from the PCB and test it, its two middle pins are now open, no matter the direction - so, it's fine(?).

I will get back to this with some real voltage measurements when I can. Any ideas so far? Kind regards. Were you measuring the bridge rectifiers in-circuit? If so, the middle two pins are connected to a winding on the transformer (aka 'a wire') and therefore should have continuity between them. Since your 18V rail was 'significantly' less than that, I'd guess that it is shorted to ground somewhere. Once you replace FZ3 (and possibly DB1) I'd disconnect the power supply board and make sure it's operating correctly by itself.

Then, you can investigate the rest of your piano to see what is loading down the 18V rail. Were you measuring the bridge rectifiers in-circuit? If so, the middle two pins are connected to a winding on the transformer (aka 'a wire') and therefore should have continuity between them. Since your 18V rail was 'significantly' less than that, I'd guess that it is shorted to ground somewhere. Once you replace FZ3 (and possibly DB1) I'd disconnect the power supply board and make sure it's operating correctly by itself.

Then, you can investigate the rest of your piano to see what is loading down the 18V rail. It's a modular unit so this means that you can attack the short circuit PCB by PCB. Start off by unplugging EVERYTHING at one end and marking the cables. Replace your fuse again and try the power supply, it should be OK. Now plug in the cable from the Audio Power Amplifier PCB and try again, see if the fuse blows, if it does then the fault will be on that PCB. Keep on plugging stuff back in until another fuse dies and then you have found your faulty PCB.

Now it gets a bit more difficult. Do a visual check on the PCB and look for burnt or blown items, if you can't see any then look for bulging capacitors. After that test any voltage regulators on the PCB and see if any have failed short circuit. It's a modular unit so this means that you can attack the short circuit PCB by PCB. Start off by unplugging EVERYTHING at one end and marking the cables. Replace your fuse again and try the power supply, it should be OK.

Now plug in the cable from the Audio Power Amplifier PCB and try again, see if the fuse blows, if it does then the fault will be on that PCB. Keep on plugging stuff back in until another fuse dies and then you have found your faulty PCB. Now it gets a bit more difficult.

Do a visual check on the PCB and look for burnt or blown items, if you can't see any then look for bulging capacitors. After that test any voltage regulators on the PCB and see if any have failed short circuit.